Competition entries: Stuck gear epic

Had some great responses to our two current competitions.

Stuck gear epic

This great one from Peter:

It was our first road trip – to Arapiles in December. I guess you could say we were clueless bumblies. In amongst all the sunburn, epics on grade 11s, near-benightments on single pitch climbs, and run-ins with cougars at the Nati pub, we lost our one and only cam on Cassandra.

Collectively we’d managed to get the draws on it and were taking turns redpointing it. Because of the traverse at the top to the chains, we’d placed a wire in a horizontal slot above the slab, so that anyone working the route on top rope wouldn’t face a nasty swing.

After several hours of holding flailing bumblies, when it came time to clean that nut it wouldn’t budge. So I went up, placed our one and only cam beside it, and went to work with a variety of nut tools, rocks (to use as hammers), slings and god knows what else.

After about an hour of hard work I finally got the damn thing free, and went to remove the cam. Which had walked. Way back into the crack. So far back I couldn’t reach it, and being a bumbly I couldn’t figure out how to operate the triggers with the nut tools.

After another hour or so I gave up, and a mate (who’s cam it was) had a go, with equal non-success.

So to save a $10 nut we lost a $80 cam, our only one on that trip. For all I know it’s still there.

Small climbers comp — Trad is Rad T-shirt:

Michael — artful climber

What is great about being a small climber?: Well… when you are a small climber, you have more skill. When a tall climber just reaches the next grimp you need more ideas, be more creative. Strength is not everything, you have to be flexible so that’s not a problem to bring your foot to your hand and stand up for the next hold.
For a small climber it’s not just sport, it’s a kind of art :)

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